A light to medium weight woven fabric made from slubbed dupioni silk threads. The fabric has an uneven texture, a crisp hand, and a surface sheen.
Silk dupioni is a light to medium weight woven fabric made from dupioni silk threads. Cross-woven dupionis, with one color in the warp and a different color in the weft, have an iridescent quality enhanced by the natural sheen of the fabric.
Silk dupioni is made from the fiber formed by two cocoons woven together when two silkworms spin their cocoons in an interlocking manner, resulting in thread that is uneven and thicker than single filaments.
Among the slubbed silk weaves, dupioni falls between Thai silk, which is lighter, and Tussah, which is rougher and heavier. Dupioni resembles shantung, which is made with dupioni fibers, but with the difference that the slubs in dupioni are more irregular. Shantung is also a bit lighter weight. Synthetic dupionis are also available.
Dupioni may also be spelled dupion, doupion, or douppioni.
Use dupioni to make blouses, vests, dresses, or evening gowns. Dupioni is also suitable for tailored pants and straight skirts but should be lined for durability and comfort.
Tips & Tricks
For a softer silk with good drape, wash dupioni in the machine on cool or warm; dry on delicate or permanent press. Your "new" fabric will have less sheen but a warm luster and beautiful drape.
Use taut sewing when seaming dupioni - hold the fabric taut in front of and behind the needle to avoid puckering.
Using the walking foot when sewing dupioni also eliminates puckering.
Dresses made of dupioni benefit from lining. China silk or bemberg rayon make excellent linings, depending on the weight and hand desired.
Use a Microtex 70/10 needle in your machine.